Haider Ackermann Builds a Bridge Between Tom Ford’s Past and Its Futures

Haider Ackermann's debut collection for Tom Ford marked a pivotal moment in the fashion world. Appointed as the brand's new creative director, Ackermann was tasked with carrying forward Ford’s legacy while also introducing his own distinct vision. His show in Paris drew significant attention, with an A-list audience that included Dove Cameron, Lou Doillon, and Camille Rowe, all eager to witness the highly anticipated reveal.

The runway presentation opened with an atmospheric effect, as models emerged through a misty backdrop, immediately establishing a captivating tone. The initial looks were a clear reference to Tom Ford’s late-'90s aesthetic, featuring sleek low-rise leather trousers, sharply tailored asymmetric jackets, and silk skirts that seamlessly blended sensuality with sophistication. The collection remained largely in black and white, yet it was the beauty looks that offered the first burst of color, with vibrant eye makeup, bold lips, and minimalist bouffant-inspired hairstyles, adding a modern twist to the glamour.

As the collection evolved, Ackermann introduced a shift towards Ford's signature celebration of excess, but with his own interpretation. Models strutted down the runway in high-cut gowns in warm butter yellow and striking pool blue, complemented by oversized bangles, offering a refined take on '70s opulence. The inclusion of neon suiting introduced an unexpected modernity, while a fringed lavender dress captured the glamour and fluidity of disco, bringing a sense of nostalgia into the present. Ackermann’s command of color was on full display, weaving a palette that was both bold and elegant, enhancing the collection’s fluid, timeless quality.

The model cast itself was a statement of power, featuring top-tier talents such as Alex Consani, Vittoria Ceretti, and longtime Ford muse Karen Elson. As the show drew to a close, the audience responded with spontaneous and enthusiastic applause. Ackermann received a standing ovation, and in a gesture of respect and support, Tom Ford himself quickly rose to his feet. This moment of affirmation echoed Ford’s confidence in Ackermann’s vision when his appointment was first announced in September, signaling a promising new chapter for Tom Ford.

WR,

Rozhin Shafaghati